The Street Symphonies of Banaras: Music of the Ghats and Alleys

The ghats of Varanasi, stretching along the Ganges, are natural stages for music. At dawn, sadhus and local musicians gather at Assi Ghat, singing bhajans to the rising sun, accompanied by harmoniums and manjiras. The evening Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat transforms into a musical spectacle, with priests chanting mantras and drummers playing nagara and dhol to a captivated crowd of pilgrims and tourists.

Impromptu performances are common, with groups of locals singing chaiti during Chaitra or kajri in the monsoon season. These songs, often drawn from Bhojpuri folk traditions, tell stories of love, nature, and devotion, resonating with the river’s timeless flow. Street musicians, playing ektara or sarangi, add soulful melodies to the ghats, creating an atmosphere where spirituality and music intertwine.

Banaras’s narrow alleys, particularly in areas like Kabir Chaura, are vibrant musical hubs. Known as the “mohalla of musicians,” Kabir Chaura is home to families of hereditary artists who perform classical, folk, and devotional music. Street akhadas (music groups) gather in courtyards, practicing thumri or tabla, their notes echoing through the lanes. Passersby often pause to listen, turning these rehearsals into communal experiences.

During festivals like Holi or Nag Panchami, the alleys come alive with phagua songs and folk dances, accompanied by dhol and tasha. Children and elders alike join in, singing traditional tunes or modern Bhojpuri hits, some inspired by platforms like Mamta Music Banaras, which popularize remixed versions of folk songs.

The street music of Banaras is defined by its accessibility and inclusivity. Unlike formal concerts, these performances require no tickets or stages—anyone can join a kirtan circle or strum along with a street performer. Boatmen on the Ganges often sing folk songs like Sohniya Re while rowing, their voices carrying across the water. Tea stalls and local markets buzz with amateur singers humming bhajans or Bollywood tunes inspired by Varanasi’s cinematic portrayals.

This spontaneity fosters a sense of community. For instance, during Chhath Puja, entire neighborhoods gather at ghats like Kedar Ghat, singing devotional Chhath geet, creating a shared spiritual experience. These moments highlight Banaras’s unique ability to make music a collective expression of life.

The street and ghat music of Banaras has inspired contemporary artists and filmmakers. Songs performed on the ghats, like those in Masaan’s soundtrack, draw from the city’s raw, unpolished soundscape. Modern platforms, including those similar to Mamta Music Banaras, remix street-inspired folk tunes, such as Gaadi Hakat Hakat, blending them with electronic beats to appeal to urban audiences.

Social media amplifies this culture, with videos of ghat performances going viral, showcasing Banaras’s living musical heritage to global audiences. Events like the Varanasi Ghat Festival encourage street artists to perform alongside established musicians, bridging traditional and modern expressions.

Despite its vibrancy, street music faces challenges from urban development and noise pollution, which threaten the acoustics of open-air performances. The rise of digital music also draws younger audiences away from live street shows. However, initiatives like the Kashi Sangeet Samaj and local NGOs organize ghat concerts and workshops to nurture young talent and preserve this culture. UNESCO’s designation of Varanasi as a “City of Music” has also spotlighted these grassroots traditions.

Ramu Chacha: A beloved ektara player at Manikarnika Ghat, known for his soulful nirgun bhajans.

Shivani Devi: A folk singer at Assi Ghat, whose kajri performances draw crowds during the monsoon.

Babu Khan: A sarangi artist in Kabir Chaura, carrying forward a family tradition of street music.

The streets and ghats of Banaras are a living symphony, where every corner hums with music. From devotional chants to folk ballads, these performances capture the city’s soul, blending tradition with the spontaneity of daily life. As Banaras continues to evolve, its street music remains a vibrant thread, inviting all to join in its timeless melody.